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| Juiced!: Restaurant wine lists, Part 1 |
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by David Oliver This is a subject near to my heart. I spent more than 20 years in the restaurant business and during that time created many wine lists. It’s not an easy task. There are many factors to be considered and the person creating the list should have a strong knowledge of wine and preferably a passion for it. Sadly, too many lists are created as an afterthought with little knowledge or passion.If you are a restaurateur approaching the creation of a wine list, the first thing you should consider is your concept and cuisine. If you’re serving burgers and fries, wine is likely to be of less importance than if you’re serving Italian or French cuisine. From my experience, no matter what kind of food you serve, if you make wine a priority your customers will drink wine. Even if you serve bar food. There is a wine for everything! There needs to be balance. The major grapes should be represented as well as important regions from around the world. If you run a restaurant that is focused on Spanish cuisine you can ignore French wine, but if your focus is a broader American cuisine, you should at least have a selection or two from Bordeaux or the Rhone valley. Don’t rely on your own palate. Think about what your customers want. There was a list I created that once I put it all down on paper I realized it was overly heavy on Syrah and Shiraz (they’re the same grape), which happens to be one of my favorite grapes but isn’t necessarily a popular category on wine lists. Everyone has a different palate and there should be something for everyone. That doesn’t necessarily mean that you need a hundred different wines on your list. Here’s a rundown of some better lists: Apollon, Appleton: Owner Stavros Kodis has a better understanding of Greek wine than anyone I’ve ever met. Greek wines are a mystery even to many wine experts. The grapes they use are, for the most part, completely different than what we are used to in the United States, Australia, South America or most of Europe. Instead of being puzzled over what to choose, ask your server or Stavros himself. I have never been disappointed by any wine I’ve had at Apollon. It’s a revelation for me and the food is amazing! Carmella’s, Appleton: The new kid on the block has put a stronger focus on Italian wine than any other local restaurant. The results are outstanding. Italy produces more wine than any other country in the world and has been doing it longer than any country besides Greece. Selections from the prominent regions of Italy would be a wise choice for any restaurant. Carmella’s has an experienced wine buyer in co-owner Nicole DeFranza. She’s made Italian wines the core of the list but has added excellent choices from other regions as well. If you haven’t been to Carmella’s yet, do yourself a favor and plan an evening out. Great food, great wine, great staff! Flanagan’s Wine Review, Appleton: If you have the word “wine” in the name of your restaurant, you’d better have a respectable list. Pat Flanagan has the benefit of having an attached retail store and years of experience in dealing with wine. He has a wide range of choices and doesn’t let those choices stagnate. Change is always in the air and that’s a good thing. With the sheer number of wines out there, Pat is always looking for what’s next. Red & White, Appleton: Not a full-service restaurant, but if you’re looking for one of the most eclectic selections of wine by the glass, do not miss Red & White. With 32 wines available by the glass every day you’re sure to find something you like, unless you don’t like wine at all. Mary Beth Leopold has carried on the tradition started by Jim Cossette (the founder and original owner) and put together a phenomenal staff that is truly passionate about wine. If you want to expand your palate and discover wines you may love, go to Red & White on a regular basis. Republic Chophouse, Green Bay: I’m in Appleton. If you live in Green Bay or are close by, check out Republic Chophouse. A classic steakhouse with a modern approach, they have a wine list better than most in the area. With interesting selections by the glass and bottle, you’re sure to find something you like! Becket’s, Oshkosh: The approach taken toward the wine list is innovative and always looking at ways to bring interesting wines to their guests at a great price! There are other restaurants in the Valley and beyond that are worth mentioning for their wine programs. I’ll do another column in the future to talk about them. Drink wine when you dine and make sure to frequent restaurants that care about it!
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