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| Restaurant Sherpa: The best kept secret on the Fox! |
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By Tom Jensen Some of the best places to dine are the hardest to find. Well, if you consider yourself an adventurer, let me privy you to a trendy little café that is putting a lot of smiles on the faces of Located at The Atlas Mill was built in 1878, one of Kimberly-Clark's first papermaking facilities. Now home to Atlas Coffee Mill & Café (established in 2004), The Mill Boutique & Art Gallery, Paper Creations and Stone Cottage Music Studio, Atlas Mill has become a hub for local artisans. The mill pays tribute to leaders of the paper industry at Sue adds, " Next to the coffee shop and restaurant, the boutique and art gallery offers a wide selection of hand-woven textiles, jewelry, pottery and other unique gift items created by more than 40 local artists. Many volunteer on a regular basis, teaching and sharing their passions with others. Musicians also come to study harp and piano at Stone Cottage Music Studio.
Starting with fresh fruit and local cheeses, guests are invited to stroll through the menu, stopping at menu items such as Veggie Quiche, “Big Kid” Grilled Cheese with Chips, or a Marinated Portabella Mushroom Panini smothered in roasted red peppers, cucumbers, onions, feta cheese and hummus. Wow! In the mornings, the coffee pots are brewing and the Strata is baking. A Bogenschutz Queen Anne Bed & Breakfast Original, this house specialty has eggs, shaved ham, broccoli, and cheddar cheese all baked on a bread base. It is to die for! The eggs are soft and fluffy, and the portion size is enough to tame the heartiest of appetites. If you time it right, the ever changing soup of the day, might just happen to be the Tomato Bisque with Mozzarella Cheese. This culinary masterpiece starts with a creamy bisque-style tomato soup, to which soft dollops of Mozzarella cheese are integrated throughout. From there, Chef Sara tops it all off with robust croutons and cheese. This soup will knock your socks off. For lighter fare I would recommend the “Hum Us a Tune” Platter, or the Asian Chicken Wrap complete with shredded carrots, chow mien noodles, sweet peppers and Romaine lettuce seasoned very gently with an Asian peanut sauce. This bad boy is all wrapped together in a wheat tortilla. One aspect of the Atlas Coffee Mill & Café that separates itself from the rest of the pack is the community involvement that goes into the special events. From the Farmers Market to “Meet the Artists” wine events to supporting local charities, Sue and Larry have created an atmosphere that supports the community as well as their family. A few of the grandchildren even lend a helping hand! If you are looking to plan your next special event, the Atlas Coffee Mill & Café offers unsurpassed river views, an outdoor deck for “under the stars” dining, special event menu options complete with craft beers and Wine Spectator Award-winning wines. My recommendation would be to stop in for a cup of Joe, a robust Fava Tea, or a refreshing New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and watch the Bald Eagles fly. For peace and tranquility on the Fox, stop by and say hi to Sue and Larry and don’t forget to tell them the Sherpa sent you.
The comfort of the Chalice By Tom Jensen
Comfort food is alive and well on the north side of Oshkosh. To be completely honest, when my sister-in-law Carrie suggested the Chalice in Oshkosh for dinner, I didn’t know what it was. I enjoy trying new places with family and friends, and on this occasion I left the recommendations for a place to eat to someone else. My wife Becky, her sister Carrie, and her husband Jim, all decided to give the Chalice a try.
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May 2010: Italian Estasi
By Tom Jensen
Dining out in Northeast Wisconsin offers a wide variety of fare for the everyday diner to the guest with a well-traveled palate. In Appleton, the Fox Cities Mall has stood as a shopping landmark and dining district for local travelers as well as out-of-town tourists.
Larry DeFranza and his daughters, Nicole and Kristen, have cut their teeth in the restaurant business at a very early age. Having spent time in New York the DeFranza team believes if you haven’t washed the floor you work on, scrubbed the dish you are serving, or are fluent in the wine region of the wine you are suggesting, you are missing the heart and soul of Carmella’s philosophy. This is truly expressed when guests enter the restaurant and speak with any of the staff. They are on their “A” game. My wife Becky and I ventured out on a Saturday night around 8:30 p.m., thinking we would be safe to get a table. The wait was about 20 minutes, so we decided to have a glass of wine. Nicole was working, and she displays a genuine state of professionalism that could only be found in someone who has grown up in the industry, day in and day out. Nicole and Kristen both took the time to say hello as they buzzed back and forth to assist servers and help expo entrée’s. The wait ended up being about 15 minutes, so the server escorted us to our table. The mood in the restaurant was energetic and fun. The interior is decorated with warm tones and delicate lighting. Larry’s daughter and co-owner Kristen describes the atmosphere as “a contemporary twist on a traditional restaurant, with an urban feel.” I would have to agree. The menu can be intimidating to some but a few quick translations will help shed some light on the subject when ordering off the menu. Insalata means: Salad Contorni means: Sides Carne e Formaggio means: Meat and Cheese Dolci means: Dessert The menu is rooted deep in the flavors of Italy. On this occasion Becky ordered the zuppe di pesce, which includes baby calamari, mussels, halibut, gulf shrimp, and sea scallops in a tomato broth served over linguine. We are huge fans of the Tadish Grille’s Cioppino. Located in California this is by far the best fish stew we have had….until now. When Becky’s entrée arrived, the sweet smell of salt water and fresh fish filled the air. The delicate balance of soft succulent mussels and tender sea scallops made the game of “find the fish in the dish” a lot of fun. My entrée of peppercorn-crusted Sea Scallops with wild mushroom and parmesan risotto was the best I’ve had in a long time. This entrée is a must order if you enjoy scallops. Our dinners were complemented with Manderfield’s Artisanal breads. Keeping it local and keeping it real, I have nothing but respect for that. Carmella’s provides a superb environment, mixed with outstanding food, and table service that brings back the fact that the customer always comes first. Soon, patio time is going to take on a new meaning to all of us in July. The statewide smoking ban is coming and the patio atmosphere is going to become Wisconsin chic. When Colorado went smoke free, following the trendy California law, bars and restaurants started to build elaborate patios and outdoor “experiences” to adapt to the new law. This is exactly what is happening now in Green Bay, Appleton, and OshVegas. Carmella’s has gone with a very proactive approach to this adjustment. The patio is not only large, clean and fun, but a place to laugh, dine and seek out a true Bistro experience. Whether you push a stroller in on a Sunday afternoon with friends, meet that special someone for a first date, or celebrate a special occasion with a large group (industry note: call for groups of six or more), Carmella’s an Italian Bistro provides northeast Wisconsin with true restaurant “estasi.” April 2009: Happy Joes
When it comes to pizza, beer, entertainment, and location, only a hand full of restaurants in the Fox Valley can offer them all. When dining out most people ask themselves the following questions: What am I in the mood to eat? Where are the restaurants located that offer that kind of food? How much money do I have to spend?
And finally, and most important, who am I going to be dining with. Well, I have stumbled onto a little gem on the north side of Appleton called Happy Joe’s.
On November 16th, 1972, the first Happy Joe’s opened in East Davenport Iowa. A family owned operation that combined a pizza parlor and an ice cream shop. Fast forward to November 2009 and you will find that same hometown pizza parlor feeling all over again. Located at 3401 East Evergreen Drive, Appleton, Happy Joe’s is conveniently located by Badger Sports and a huge soccer field complex. I decided to check this place out one afternoon armed with some of the toughest pizza and entertainment critics in the business. I chose my son Colin 7, his buddy Cooper 7, my niece Morgan 10, and her friend Leah 10. We had just experienced Tim Burtons 3D take on an old classic and had built up quite an apetite. The first thing you notice when arriving at Joes is the parking lot. There is plenty of it. This brand new stand alone building was built for the masses. Able to hold approximately 200 people, Joe’s is a gorgeous building. Upon entering, a hostess greeted us and told us we could sit wherever we would like, and may order at the counter when we were ready. I like this approach. It gives the group time to decide on what to eat without being rushed. With over 18 different toppings to put on your pizza, a little extra time is thankfully needed. The menu is broken down into appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pasta, pizza, and finally dessert. To make everyone happy, we chose 4 individual pizzas so the kids could put whatever they wanted on their pizza. Each child chose from a cornucopia of ingredients to masterfully create their pizza project. I opted for the salad bar and a bowl of chili.
The game room is located in the corner of the restaurant and is full of the latest games of skill and chance. As we walked to the counter to order our food I couldn’t help but notice all the staff was smiling and seemed very friendly. The flat screen T.V.’s are everywhere but didn’t drown out guests trying to have a conversation. The kids scurried off to the video games as I went to the salad bar. The fully stocked salad bar consisted of everything from fresh greens, bright vegetables, mounds of fruit, and even chili. The bar was also resting on a clean bed of ice and seemed to be maintained after every use. I took my seat at the table and a server came over and asked if I needed anything. This level of service is great because if one of the kids starts to freak-out and we have to leave quickly, or if the NCAA tournament basketball game goes into overtime and we want to stay and watch the game, we can come and go as we please. Very cool. The kids blew through 20 bucks at about the same time the pizza came out, all of 12 minutes. The pizza was bubbling with cheese, pepperoni, sausage, and veggies. The kids absolutely loved the pizza. As we counted the tickets the kids earned from the game room our server brought over the cinnamon stick pizza dessert topped with frosting. Holy cow was this “pizza” impressive. Not only was it hot, fresh, and fast, it was as if you took one of those huge Cinnabon’s from the mall and drove over it with your car. It sounds gross, but we couldn’t finish it faster. The kids ran back to the game room to light more of my money on fire as I sat and watched the end of the basketball game.
As I was corralling the kids, the General Manager Greg came out from around the counter and started playing the games with the kids. “I haven’t lost at this game yet” he announced. All the kids spun around as he “won” again and gave the tickets to the kids.
Overall, the staff, location, and pizza were very impressive. The friendly staff is welcoming and extremely helpful.
This spring if you are out and about with or without the family, stop by Happy Joe’s to catch the game or try your luck in the arcade. Located in the heart of Appleton’s soccer heaven, Happy Joe’s scores BIG!
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