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| Restaurant Sherpa: Get ready for a change of Seasons |
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The word is out and it is nothing short of spectacular. Well, maybe exciting is more like it. The Lemongrass – formerly of 4390 West Greenville Drive, Appleton, is merging with The Seasons American Bistro located at 213 South Nicolet Drive, just south of the Fox River Mall.  I recently visited Lemon Grass and found a few wonderful treats on the menu. Their signature soup is the Lemon Grass soup, complete with shallots, sliced mushrooms and merriment of lemon aromas and vegetable broth. The seasoning of lemon grass, ginger, and Kaffir lime leaves absorbs through the nose and gently cleans the sinuses. It warms you up, but doesn’t make you sweat. I moved on to the Combination Appetizer. A bite of each of the appetizers was just what I was looking for. The chicken satay skewers marinated in yellow curry didn’t need the peanut sauce it was served with. The chicken is plump, moist and flavorful – a light, healthy treat with or without the peanut sauce. I shifted from the appetizer to my lunch entrée. The Pahd Kee Mao consists of rice noodles stir-fried with a choice of meat. I chose chicken served with onions, baby corn, carrots, snow peas, peppers and tomatoes spiced with fresh basil. This lunch entrée is outstanding. All the lunch entrées have a heat option. To put it plainly, how hot do you want it? The options include slight tingle, mild, medium, hot, burning. I asked my server Domi which level would be appropriate for me and he recommended the medium spice for the Pahd Kee Mao and he hit the spice right on the head. Domi is from Santiago, Chile, and explained that Pahd Kee Mao truly expresses itself with a bold kick of spice. The lunch concluded with a half-glass of tawny port and a piece of Chocolate Kiss cake layered with silky chocolate mousse on a chocolate graham cracker crust, made fresh by the Seasons’ own pastry chef. The cake was creamy smooth and very impressive. Although Lemon Grass will ultimately close its doors, I believe new doors will be open as the Asian Fusion menu travels into the Seasons and dances on the palate of the fine dining community. The Seasons’ menu is full of classic entrées and seasonal selections. The classics include Cabernet Marinated Sirloin and Sesame-Seared Ahi Tuna. The seasonal selections think outside the box with such selections as pan-seared pheasant served with a cranberry and walnut risotto accompanied by pancetta green beans and a maple chicken demi-glaze.  Or the Cedar Plank Salmon marinated in a citrus blend and bourbon, grilled on a plank and served with a wild rice blend and baby carrots. All of these selections are cooked to order and feature the freshest ingredients paired with an award-winning wine list. On this occasion my coworker, Todd Grishaber, and I stopped in for a bite to eat. Todd chose the soup of the day which was seafood gumbo and I opted for the Lobster Bisque. I followed my soup order with the Cabernet-marinated sirloin and Todd was persuaded to try the Ahi tuna. The soups came out quickly and at a perfect temperature. The lobster was creamy and robust without overpowering the delicate lobster tones. The seafood gumbo was also a hit. The shrimp melts in your mouth with a racy cream sauce full of peppers. Either soup is a hearty delight during the Lenten season. Todd’s Ahi tuna entrée was prepared rare with Himalayan red rice and napa cabbage tossed with a warm seaweed salad and finished with a citrus-ginger salad. Sauces on yellow fin, blue fin, or albacore can damage a great cut of tuna. This cut was perfectly seasoned and displayed a mouth-watering texture that could only be found at a restaurant marked for having a professionally managed kitchen. My certified Angus steak was cooked Pittsburgh-style and placed atop rosemary-thyme mashed potatoes, accompanied by roasted root veggies and a garlic-port demi-glaze. The demi did not overpower the lean steak and the veggies provided a nice side as well as adding color to the dish. I would have to say, I don’t get to Seasons very often but that Cabernet Steak will keep me coming back. With positive commitment and a passion for excellence, the Seasons new “East meets West” concept will be a huge success. What other restaurant combines a bold power lunch atmosphere with an elegant evening destination spot? All of you know how I feel about mom and pop restaurants. Owner/operators are even higher up on my list. These Wisconsin restaurant owners create jobs, stimulate the economy, and provide a quality, healthy lifestyle for everyone to enjoy. Stop in one afternoon and try one of the many hand-made Mojitos, and, as always, tell them the Sherpa sent you. n |
