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Fox Foodie: Oil & Vinegar E-mail

Oil and vinegar obviously make up a huge part of cooking and the food world, so there is a lot of depth and ground to cover. As usual I will only cover the basics, leaving it up to  you to get more involved in the subject.

Oil: It’s difficult to think of any savory cooking techniques that don’t start or include oil of some form or another. Braising, stewing, frying all start or use oil in the process. Sautéing, deep frying and wok cooking use oil as well.

So what is oil exactly? Oil is basically purified vegetable fat that is usually liquid at room temperature. Are you shocked to here that oil is fat?  Well don’t be. Most people do not make the correlation between oils and fats, although they are basic relatives. The major difference being oils are liquid at room temp and animal fat is generally a solid. Okay, so there are many different types of oils for many different uses. I am not going to be covering health pros and cons or any other dietary info, just types, cooking temps, uses and smoke points.  Here are some of the most common, with their properties.

Canola Oil: This is a very common, versatile oil that has a variety of applications in the kitchen. It has a relatively high smoke point of 468 degrees F, and is used in baking, frying and salad dressings

Corn Oil: Also relatively common, this oil has a smoke point of 457 degrees F, and is used in baking, frying, salad dressings and to make margarine and shortening.

Grape Seed Oil: Used for sautéing, vinaigrettes and margarine. Grape seed oil has a lower smoke point of 399 degrees F.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: This very popular oil is used for vinaigrettes and cooking. It has a smoke point of about 374 degrees F. Other olive oils – such as virgin, refined or extra light – are used for various reasons. The more refined the product the higher the smoke point, which can translate to more forgiveness in the kitchen. These oils are generally less expensive so they are sometimes used to save on cost in a professional kitchen. A relatively common practice is to use blended oil that is 20 or 30 percent extra virgin olive oil and the rest canola.

Peanut Oil: This oil is popular below the Sun Belt in the Eastern U.S. because of the prevalence of peanut farms and is common in Asian cooking. It has a smoke point of 448 degree F and is used for frying, cooking and salad dressings.

Sesame Oil: Sesame oil tends to be big on flavor and a little goes a long way. I love the way it tastes but I find that processed sesame oil taste manufactured. I just make my own by covering a thin layer of white sesame seeds with canola oil and slowly cooking it until it has become deep brown and toasted. The end result is a rich, nutty and mellow oil that I use liberally.

Sunflower Oil: Sunflower is used in for cooking, salad dressings, margarine and shortening. It has a smoke point of 475 degrees F.

Chefs Notes: Oil smoke point is important for several reasons. The higher the smoke point, the more stable it is over time and the less it will degrade. You can achieve better carmelization on proteins, allowing the oil to be very hot and searing or sautéing as faint whiffs of smoke appear. Oil is both a vehicle for heat and flavor and can be used as a protective barrier to help guard against scorching and burning. Neutral oils such as canola and grape seed are great for salad dressings, vinaigrettes and flavored oils because you  can infuse the with flavor.

Vinegar: The definition of vinegar is “sour wine” or an alcoholic liquid that is soured from acetic fermentation. Acetobacter is a group of bacteria that convert carbohydrates (sugar) into acetic acid and in the process killing or converting the alcohol. Vinegar can be made from any fruit or material containing sugar.

Every country has its own form of vinegar so there is no time to cover them all. A specific country will use a different base ingredient to start with that is indigenous to that specific country. Some common retail vinegars are apple cider, distilled white and red, red wine, balsamic, malt and sugar cane.

Culinarily speaking, I have a few favorites. Cava and sherry vinegar from Spain and aged balsamic from Italy. Aged balsamic vinegar is definitely a culinary treasure and is relatively common in high-end restaurants, Italian or otherwise. There are generally strict guidelines for producing aged balsamic and the process seems to be just as controlled. In the simplest explanation good quality base vinegar is aged in a series of oak barrels, reducing the quantity over time by process of evaporation. The reduction concentrates it while the barrels give it depth and flavor. The end result is a very pungent, sweet flavor and a thicker viscosity. It can take only a drop or two of aged balsamic to finish a dish.

How important is the vinaigrette?

I think vinaigrette and its importance is undervalued and certainly taken for granted. A vinaigrette can make or break a salad, so time and attention is critical. It’s not just oil and vinegar, but specific quantities, ratios and seasonings that matter.

Vinaigrette is all about balance! The proper ratio is three parts oil to one part vinegar. The oils may or may not be blended as well as the vinegars but the ratio stays the same.  The reason for the specifics is balance, a vinaigrette must be balanced between its acid components and fat (oil).

If a dressing is not properly balanced cooks tend to overcompensate and start adding ingredients and adjusting ratios. This I suppose it not the worst thing in the world, but if a vinaigrette falls out of balance it can be difficult to bring it back with out losing the simplicity. Vinaigrettes are great for salads, vegetables or marinating.

Simple Red Wine Vinaigrette

3 C oil (extra virgin olive oil, vegetable, grape seed or any combination)

1 C vinegar (in this case red wine, but it’s up to you)

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp honey (Wisconsin, when possible)

Kosher salt & fresh ground black pepper to taste

Method: In a medium mixing bowl or blender, combine the vinegar, mustard and honey.  Thoroughly mix the ingredients together until they are homogenized. In a slow steady stream whisk or incorporate in the oil until it is emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Chef Notes: If you are using a bowl and a whisk, place a folded wet tea or kitchen towel on the counter top under the bowel. This will help to keep the bowel from sliding around, making it easier to whisk and pour at the same time.

Infused & Flavored Oils

Flavored oils are fun to use because you can make just about any kind. When making infused oils I like to use vegetable oil because it’s neutral, just a vehicle for flavor. For dipping oils I like olive oil because I want to taste the oil, too. One of my favorites is garlic oil because it’s rich, sweet and leaves you with roasted or caramelized garlic cloves (garlic confit) as a byproduct. I use both the oil and the cloves for mashed potatoes, soups, salad dressings or a sandwich spread. It’s my favorite condiment!

Roasted Garlic Oil & Cloves

2 bulbs fresh garlic (peeled, cloves only)

1 C Vegetable oil

Method: Place the cloves in a small sauté pan and cover with the oil. On very low heat simmer the cloves for 30-45 minutes until the cloves are soft. Turn off heat and allow the garlic and oil to cool completely. Store the cloves in the oil and use for up to one week.