Appleton Fratello’s full of tasty choices

A discriminating diner friend of ours recently had dinner at Fratello’s on the river in Appleton and said it was wonderful. It has never been her favorite place to dine, but they have a new chef and she was really pleased. So…we were off to see the wizard!

Dave made reservations early enough to get home to snooze through the third and final presidential debate. It was the perfect storm for Fratello’s insofar as our resident food Nazi had been at defcon three for the past six weeks. Doctor’s orders. Tonight we feast –bread, wine, pasta, whatever Dave wants tonight will be a great indulgence.
We arrived at 6 and the place was nearly jammed; a good sign. Table arrangement put us right on the river bank view. Our server was over-the-top enthusiastic and took a little getting used to. He even ventured to say that in commenting on the menu he was known to be “brutally honest.” Dave was quick to add that we were capable of the same.

Betsy was torn between three entrees: sesame-seared tuna, braised short ribs and cinnamon pork tenderloin. Stepping into the breach was our smooth-talking server. His two thumbs up suggestion was the pork tenderloin. The menu described it as one of Fratello’s signature dishes – tender glazed pork served with butternut squash ravioli in an apricot brandy cream sauce. Clearly your diners had stood down from defcon three and were on course for a death-defying meal.

Dave’s choice was a center cut filet mignon served over a portabella “lardon” sauce topped with French butter and served with a side of “mac & cheese.” Help! Dave eschewed the “mac & cheese” and opted for grown-up pasta covered with the aforementioned portabella lardon sauce.
The wine selection offered a “flight of whites” in the Chardonnay neighborhood. Or a flight of red merlots; two much maligned wines of late. According to our server, this meant four glasses with 2-3 ounces in each. Dave opted for a California Estancia Pinot Noir and Betsy the chardonnay flight. Salad and soups were ordered and we awaited the onslaught to our much discussed diet.

First to arrive were the wines. Betsy’s showed up in a metal hanger kind of sling that held eight glasses. Lined up in front of Betsy, the four glasses made quite the sight. Dave’s Pinot arrived and we busied ourselves with sharing sips. Each glass had its own personality and all were definitely “keepers.” On the heels of the wine arrived the bread, herbed butter and the house salads.
Boy, you don’t know how good fresh warm bread can taste until you don’t eat it for six weeks. This bread really hit the spot. Dave also got a cup of chicken noodle soup. Shared with Betsy, she wrinkled up her brow and gave her standard response, “too salty.”  Dave loved it and the salad and blew through both like Sherman through Georgia. 

The server came back and asked if he could get anything for us and Dave replied, “Another salad.” Betsy gave that the thumbs down, saying, “You’ll ruin your meal.” Of course she was right but the boy was hungry.

Waiting for our entrees, we had a chance to rubberneck the room. There was a very nice view of the river rushing over the damn. Gorgeous glass mobiles and wall decor and of course, all the beautiful people. 

Both dishes looked absolutely fabulous. Dave ordered his steak “rare” and it was done perfectly. Snuggled in a warm nest of pasta, the filet looked so at home. First to fall victim to Dave’s fork was the pasta covered in mushrooms and the lardon sauce. Lardon sauce you say, what exactly is that? We didn’t know, but figured it had to do with bacon. Nuff said. The pasta clung closely to the fork and retained the heavenly, rich sauce that was studded with mushrooms. Was it good? Dave’s eyes were glazing over.

The asparagus spears were dutifully attended by Dave under Betsy’s watchful eye. The veggies dispatched, now enter the filet mignon. A true steak in taste, tenderness, juiciness and just the right amount of rare. Betsy was offered a slice and agreed with a petite “Ooh la la.”

Betsy’s butternut squash ravioli and pork tenderloin, looking like a real winner, was then offered to Dave. He exclaimed it was like eating a fine dining desert. Advertised as swimming in an apricot brandy cream sauce, it really had a strong hint of a finely made custard. The pork was also done to perfection; medallions with a nice, cinnamon crust. Two dishes totally on target here. 

Of course, Dave finished first and was able to lure more of Betsy’s succulence to his plate. She is so giving, and he, ever the grateful recipient.

Dessert was also a minor surprise. The menu displayed a whole slew of cupcakes of various flavors and concoctions. Since one of the flavors was Turtle, Dave took a flyer on it. No telling when he would get real sugar and stuff in the near future.

On the distaff side, a creme brule that was dramatically torched table side. Really good. Really rich. Really chocolatey. All this pleasure for $87; with an O’Biden/McPalin showdown yet on the evening’s agenda.

Fratello’s, 501 W. Water St., Appleton, 920-993-9087, open for lunch and dinner.